Wild Service tree

When I first became involved with Priors Hill Copse in 1989, I discovered a single Wild Service tree that had never been recorded on any previous woodland survey. This was a good indicator that the copse would have at some time connected with a nearby country park which has Wild Service. It was in one of the copse boundary hedgerows overshadowed by large oak trees permission to reduce the crown of a nearby oak to increase its light was refused. The rarity of the tree escaped the local authority meaning the tree chance develop and produce fruit very slim. Over the years of monitoring the tree suckers were found near the base of the tree. They where carefully lifted and taken home and potted up, given some TLC until they had developed good root balls. They were then returned to a clearing near the parent tree and replanted increasing the number to 9 trees. During my time as a Tree Warden and a proud member of Friends of Priors Hill copse I consider this is one of my proudest achievements hopefully protecting a rare native tree and allowing it to flourish

Sorbus torminalis is a conical shaped deciduous tree reaching up to 25m in height and one of Britain’s rarest trees. Grows mainly in old oak woodlands and often lime rich soils Green, triangular lobed leaves grow alternately on its stems, 5-9cm long sharply toothed and pointed turning red in Autumn Rounded head clusters of creamy white flowers appear in May turning to berry like fruits ripening brown that smell like fermenting ale when crushed. Collect fruits from tree when brown. nsure there are other trees nearby as seeds from a single tree may be sterile. Remove flesh from fruit immediately and sow. Stratification will aid germination, a large number of seeds needed to ensure some germination.

Kentish name was Chequer tree and was eaten as a cure for colic.

COLLECTION

Seeds can be collected as soon as they ripen, they can be collected from the tree or when they have fallen. Select healthy looking groups of trees as a solitary tree is less likely to produce fertile seeds. To ensure its a native species always collect from known sites i.e., ancient wood lands, or areas which have not been cleared for farming. Do not collect from parks or roadsides as these have a good chance of not being native. If you know where your trees are going to be planted, then try to collect from that area. This will give you a good genetic match and the tree will be more likely to grow because it will have adapted to these conditions. Finally, if you intend to plant near to a nature reserve ask for permission to collect seeds from within the site and grow from that local stock, thus ensuring the right trees for the area.

Stratification

Very few seeds will germinate as soon as they fall,they would spend the winter in a dormant state to prepare for germination and growth. Stratification is the method used to provide this period in a controlled condition. Each species has its own requirements for berries it stimulates decomposition of the flesh, the presence’s of which actually inhibits germination. Many seeds need a cold period before they can germinate.

You will need containers such as buckets or small plastic drums, with holes in the base and crocks for drainage. Seeds should be mixed with sand plus a peat- free compost or leaf mould, the mix should be one part seeds to three parts sand mixture. Sharp sand is ideal, it allows good drainage and the sharpness deters mice, never use sand from beaches as this contains salt.

Fill the containers with the seed and sand mix putting a layer of sand on top. Leave outside in a shaded area ensuring they do not dry out below a north facing is ideal. Every four weeks or so empty the containers out and mix the seed mixture up checking for any signs of early germination.

As sowing time approaches, in February, check the seeds for signs of germination. this is important if there has be a mild spell of weather [over 10c]. the seeds may show signs of swelling and the tip of the first root showing. Once germination starts it cannot be stopped, as seeds develop quickly it is imperative that the seeds are sown into trays or seed beds within a day or two, because the growing tip is fragile and must not be damaged when planted out. If in doubt sow early rather than waiting too long.

Experience has shown that removing the flesh and skin before stratification increases the germination rate of hawthorn, holly and rowen, this is called Maceration. Half fill a strong watertight container with berries and add two pints of water. Next take a pulverising tool e.g., a potato masher or large rounded pole. An up and down gentle pounding action will reduce the berries to mush, the resulting mash may then be stratified in the normal way. However, by removing the seeds altogether makes the process more exact by removing the seeds from inhibiting effects of the pigments contained in the skin. By vigorous washing the damp mass with hose pressure and stirring causes the skin and pulp to rise and it can be poured off. Any seeds which float can also be discarded as they are infertile, viable seeds are heavier and will sink. For small quantities of seed the seeds can be extracted by hand, however, still do the float test for viability especially on hazel nuts and beech masts. But be sure to dry seeds off before sowing because some seeds can be prone to rotting off if they get to wet.

Alder Buckthorn – Prunus spinosa

Prunus spinosa is as large deciduous shrub and sometimes small tree, that can reach 9m in height. It grows in hedgerows and on the edges of scrub woodland and spreads by suckers to form dense thickets. The alternate leaves are 2-4cm long , oval with a blunt tip tapering at the base. Thorny black branches produce white flowers before the leaves appear in March. These turn to bluish black berries that have a white waxy covering and are very bitter. The black hairstreak butterfly lays its eggs mainly on Blackthorn, and small birds find protection in its thorny branches. It provides good stock proof hedges, and the thickets provide valuable protection for other plants.

Collect fruit from trees as soon as they turn black. And before the birds have eaten them all. Clean seed of pulp as soon as possible. Pre-treatment is required, with all treated seeds sown by mid-April to avoid secondary dormancy.

Seeds can be collected as soon as they ripen, they can be collected from the tree or when they have fallen. Select healthy looking groups of trees as a solitary tree is less likely to produce fertile seeds. To ensure its a native species always collect from known sites i.e., ancient wood lands, or areas which have not been cleared for farming. Do not collect from parks or roadsides as these have a good chance of not being native. If you know where your trees will be planted out, then try to collect from that area. This will give you a good genetic match and the tree will likely grow easier because it will have adapted to these conditions. Finally, if you intend to plant near to a nature reserve ask for permission to collect seeds from within the site and grow from that local stock, thus ensuring the right trees for the area.

PRETREATMENT

Seed from native trees and shrubs have an in-built dormancy mechanism. This aids the survival of wild plant populations by preventing out of season germination and by spreading eventual germination over many weeks or years. Dormancy is the result of a combination of several properties held by the seed including physical, chemical and physiological.

OVERCOMING DORMANCY

To get good germination rates the seed has to be subjected to a pretreatment regime to remove the dormancy prior to sowing. The treatment is divided into two phases.

1. Warm treatment at 20-25 C e.g., an airing cupboard.

2. Cold treatment at 1-5 C e.g., in a fridge (not the freezer) as the excessively low temperatures would kill the seeds].

PROCEDURE

For all seeds requiring pre-treatment there is a standard procedure to follow this is detailed below

1. Soak seeds for 48 hours at 3-5 C.

2.Drain seeds.

3. Put seeds and compost if required into plastic container e.g., a margarine tub.

4. Place at pre-treatment temperatures for the required time. See Above

5. Once a week open container, mix the seeds and re-moisten if the compost is drying out.

6. At the end of pre-treatment remove the compost and dry the seeds in a cool, well ventilated, shaded place. Any chatted seed must not be dried at all.

SOWING DATES

The pre-treatment regime must be completed in time to allow sowing to be done between mid-March and the end of April. Care must be taken to avoid the drying out of seedlings or inducing secondary dormancy by sowing to late in the season.

STRATIFICATION

Very few seeds will germinate as soon as they fall, they would spend the winter in a dormant state to prepare for germination and growth. Stratification is the method used to provide this period in a controlled condition. Each species has its own requirements for berries it stimulates decomposition of the flesh, the presence’s of which actually inhibits germination. Many seeds need a cold period before they can germinate.

You will need containers such as buckets or small plastic drums, with holes in the base and crocks for drainage. Seeds should be mixed with sand plus a peat- free compost or leaf mould, the mix should be one-part seeds to three parts sand mixture. Sharp sand is ideal, it allows good drainage, and the sharpness deters mice, never use sand from beaches as this contains salt.

Fill the containers with the seed and sand mix putting a layer of sand on top. Leave outside in a shaded area ensuring they do not dry out below a north facing wall or fence is ideal. Every four weeks or so empty the containers out and mix the seed mixture up checking for any signs of early germination.

As sowing time approaches, in February, check the seeds for signs of germination. this is important if there has been a mild spell of weather [over 10c]. the seeds may show signs of swelling and the tip of the first root showing. Once germination starts it cannot be stopped, as seeds develop quickly it is imperative that the seeds are sown into trays or seed beds within a day or two, because the growing tip is fragile and must not be damaged when planted out. If in doubt sow early rather than waiting too long.

Experience has shown that removing the flesh and skin before stratification increases the germination rate of Hawthorn, Holly and Rowen, this is called Maceration. Half fill a strong watertight container with berries and add two pints of water. Next take a pulverising tool e.g., a potato masher or large rounded pole. An up and down gentle pounding action will reduce the berries to mush, the resulting mash may then be stratified in the normal way. However, by removing the seeds altogether makes the process more exact by removing the seeds from inhibiting effects of the pigments contained in the skin. By vigorous washing the damp mass with hose pressure and stirring causes the skin and pulp to rise and it can be poured off. Any seeds which float can also be discarded as they are infertile, viable seeds are heavier and will sink. For small quantities of seed the seeds can be extracted by hand, however, still do the float test for viability especially on hazel nuts and beech masts. But be sure to dry seeds off before sowing because some seeds can be prone to rotting off if they get to wet.

SOWING

Each tray contains up to 10 books with 4 cells per book, each book is inserted into the tray and filled with a peat free compost they have improved greatly and become more affordable over the years. Transplant seedlings into individual cells and water in, a slow-release fertilizer can be added to the compost prior to filling cells or use a liquid feed when watering. Stand the trays something to keep the base off the ground this will allow air to pass under the Rootrainers and air prune the roots stopping them becoming tangled. However, in the winter stand the trays on the ground to reduce freezing. Watering is best done by dunking the trays as this allows the compost to absorb more water. Other aids you can use are water retaining gels, but make sure you wet it well before you fill the cells otherwise it will expand and push your compost and seedlings out.

Follow the species sowing times, if you are growing on a large scale then you will be sowing into seed beds. This has various problems, protecting from birds and small mammals, which may mean seed loss could be high and you could have uneven aged young trees that could increase your labour.

If on the other hand you are growing only quantities than it is better to sow in to seed trays. This gives you better control over protection, space and even germination rates. Once the second set of leaves appear they can be transplanted out in to Rootrainers for growing on. When sowing seeds, the seed depth is usually determined by the seed size, the smaller the seed the nearer the surface of the seed tray or seed bed.

Once your seeds have germinated, they will need thinning out, this is done when they are large enough to handle when they have their second or true leaf. We use a method called Rootrainers to grow our trees in, they require little space and make maintenance very simple. They are plastic cells which sit in plastic trays, they come in various sizes but the principle is much the same.

Alternative Propagation Methods

Another way of propagating is by cuttings this involves taking piece of plant and encouraging it to produce roots. This way guarantees the plant will be an exact copy of the parent plant where seed grown which can be cross pollinated are not. This is commonly used in fruit plant propagation to ensure the fruit type remains constant for example the Bramley apple all trees originated from one tree. This technique enables you to ensure that a plant is male or female when growing plants that are not self-fertile i.e., Holly. There are two types of cuttings Hard wood and Soft wood. Hard wood cuttings are taken from last season’s growth which has turned brown and is hard, Soft wood cuttings are taken from the current seasons growth which is still soft and green.
We are planning to try and increase the presence of wild Honeysuckle in Priors Hill and we will use the cutting method for two reasons the first is to sure the colour and type remain the same and secondly seed collection which could be difficult to reach due to the plant climbing trees.

Cuttings.
Taking honeysuckle cuttings to replant is another way you can propagate a vine this is one time when we recommend you collect the plants using a plastic bag partially filled with water. Take cuttings early in the morning when there is plenty of sap in the vine, and it is best to do it in late spring or early summer. Cut off about six inches (15 cm.) from the end of a two-year old vine a longer section of vine can be turned in to several cuttings. Cut it carefully on an angle this allows you to identify the bottom of your cutting and avoid crushing the vine if you are taking several from one section ensure you cut the top straight across to identify the top. Place your cutting in the plastic bag with the base cuttings in the water to protect them until you can prepare them. Remove the lower sets of leaves and plant the cutting in potting soil place the pot and plants in a sealed plastic bag or seal propagation tray to stop them drying out. Within a few weeks, the roots should be long enough to replant.
Seeds. You can also propagate honeysuckle by seed, either saving seeds from your own vine or buying them. The seeds need to be cold to germinate, so you can sow them in the fall or start them indoors, mixing seeds and compost together and refrigerating for about 12 weeks.
Hard wood cutting are much the same however the cutting can be longer but will take longer to root. The cuttings can be placed in the ground in a trench with some sand at the bottom for drainage and kept watered. Its possible to start them of in pots but ensure they are protected from strong sunlight and make sure they don’t dry out.

Sowing your seeds

Now you have collected, cleaned and stratified you can now start sowing your seedlings or seeds. You will need the following items suitable containers, a Peat Free compost and some type of protection for your seeds or seedlings.

Containers
These can come in all shapes and sizes from drink carton to Rootrainers and seed trays. One thing I would recommend is to try and avoid plant pots purely because they are inclined to cause the roots to grow around and not straight down which can affect the tree when it’s planted out. However, this is not a don’t do just a preference I have used over the years ideally Rootrainers are my first choice if cost permit.

Compost
A peat free compost is the most environmentally friendly option there are quite a few good ones on the market and are reasonably price in comparison with peat base compost.

Protection
You will need to protect your sees and seedlings from being predated by birds, mice and other animals. They will also need protection from the element’s cold winds, hot sun and frosts. Over the years I have learnt that wildlife are very clever at finding ways to get your seeds I now use a adapted dog cage which allows my seedlings to grow tall enough and out of reach.

Sowing
Small seeds like Birch directly in to their growing contain as they don’t like being transplanted sow three or four in to a cell and pinch out leaving the strongest to grow on.#

Assembling Rootrainers 40 plants per cage

Preparing your seeds

STRATIFICATION

Very few seeds will germinate as soon as they fall, they would spend the winter in a dormant state to prepare for germination and growth. Stratification is the method used to provide this period in a controlled condition. Each species has its own requirements for berries it stimulates decomposition of the flesh, the presences of which inhibits germination. Many seeds need a cold period before they can germinate.

You will need containers such as buckets or small plastic drums, with holes in the base and crocks for drainage. Seeds should be mixed with sand plus a peat- free compost or leaf mould, the mix should be one-part seeds to three parts sand mixture. Sharp sand is ideal, it allows good drainage, and the sharpness deters mice, never use sand from beaches as this contains salt.

As sowing time approaches, in February, check the seeds for signs of germination. this is important if there has to be a mild spell of weather [over 10c]. the seeds may show signs of swelling and the tip of the first root showing. Once germination starts it cannot be stopped, as seeds develop quickly it is imperative that the seeds are sown into trays or seed beds within a day or two, because the growing tip is fragile and must not be damaged when planted out. If in doubt sow early rather than waiting too long.

Experience has shown that removing the flesh and skin before stratification increases the germination rate of hawthorn, Holly and Rowen, this is called Maceration. Half fill a strong watertight container with berries and add two pints of water. Next take a pulverising tool e.g., a potato masher or large rounded pole. An up and down gentle pounding action will reduce the berries to mush; the resulting mash may then be stratified in the normal way. However, by removing the seeds altogether will make the process more exact by removing the inhibiting effects from the pigments contained in the skin. By vigorous washing the damp mass with hose pressure and stirring causes the skin and pulp to rise and it can be poured off. Any seeds which float can also be discarded as they are infertile, viable seeds are heavier and will sink. For small quantities of seed the seeds can be extracted by hand, however, still do the floats test for viability especially on hazel nuts and beech masts. But be sure to dry seeds off before sowing because some seeds can be prone to rotting off if they get to wet. Not all seeds will germinate in the first season, and some require a second winter to stimulate germination this can be a mechanism to stop all the seeds germinating together. By using a fridge and a warm area we can mimic the stratification period. A short time in a fridge not a freezer and a short spell in a warm cupboard twice in the first winter can cause the seeds to experience two winters. Some seeds such as Birch and nuts don’t like disturbance once they have chitted, so they are best sown direct into their growing site Birch seeds are best sown in twos and threes and thin out to a single plant once germination as taken place. Success can still be sporadic for all seeds we cannot beat nature at best we can only help it.

From seeds to trees 2

Seed collection

To start your growing journey the first thing you will need are seeds and how to prepare them here are a few simple tips for you.

Collection
Firstly, collect your seeds from areas where you plan to eventually plant your trees. Trees adapt to the conditions in the area they are growing which means that trees growing in the warm south of the country will fair so well in the colder north. Try and collect seeds from known woodlands as this will give the seeds providence that they are more likely to be native parkland trees may not have necessarily originated there.
Trees have a circle of producing seeds called mast some years are poor others are good and are more inclined to be more viable to germinate. Try and collect seeds directly from the tree if safe to do so other wise from the ground but check they have not been damaged by pests. Use paper or hessian bags to hold your seeds plastic tends to make the seeds sweat and could impede germination ensuring they are labelled and stored separately. If collecting on private land ensure you have the owner’s permission, only take what you need as they are food to wildlife. Don’t collect the first seeds to fall as late seeds may be of a better quality but don’t leave it to late as other animals and birds beat you to it.

Preparation
Most of the seed you will be contained in fruit i.e., cherry stones and apple pips however they also can be nuts, winged seeds or cones. While the fruits are still fresh they need to be extracted from the flesh depending on the amount of fruit collected this can be done in several ways. Small amounts can be removed by hand and washed larger amounts can be put in a container of water and gently mashed the viable seeds will sink to the bottom and the flesh discarded. The seeds from fleshy fruits will need stratified over winter. Nuts can be sorted by just dropping in water discarding any that float as they will not be viable. A useful tip for Hazel nuts is to gently tap with a toffee hammer just cracking the shell this will help if the winter weather is not cold enough to happen naturally a side effect of global warming. Cones can be left in a paper bag to dry out this causes them to open, and the seeds will fall out. Wing seeds can be sown with the wings left on just split the seeds float testing is not reliable for these due to floating is one way of them dispersing but for most other seeds it can save a lot of wasted time.

From seeds to trees

The year 2021 saw the end of my Tree Warden journey but I feel I still need try in some way to show the continued importance of trees and the vital role they are playing in our battle to stem climate change. I hope to pass on the knowledge I have gained over the last 30 years from the many people I have had the privilege to know and work with over the years. Of the many there are two I would consider the most influential Jon Stokes of The Tree Council and my first mentor James Watson. I will also include snippets from a booklet Jon Stokes gave me The Good Seed Guide a booklet he produced in his early days with The Tree Council.

My journey started in 1989 when I joined The Tree Councils tree warden scheme. They had a volunteer tree nursery in my parish of Hound it was the start of me witnessing the amazement of nature. The nursery consisted of a seed cage which protected the seeds from predictors whilst germinating and a plant collection point. The ground was divided into nursery, 1,2 and 3 year beds were the trees would move up as they grow until ready for their final planting site. I hope to take you through the stages of collection, growing and finally planting out. One thing the last 30 years have taught me is you don’t need a vast area to grow them a small area in your garden will suffice. I hope you find this experience will be helpful and as rewarding to you as it was and still is to me. Though there is an ever-increasing need for trees today it’s important to remember also it’s the right tree in the right places. However, we have to be mindful of global warming and our native trees struggling with the rise in temperatures and seasonal changes. I live in the south and have noticed the milder winters have had an alarming effect on Hazel regeneration in particular my local wood Priors Hill Copse.
If I can encourage to plant a tree I will feel I have achieved something even more so if it’s one you have grown yourselves.

Engaging Children with Nature 3

After the wildlife area we moved on to the playground area for the reception children. We decided that it would be easier and wiser to paint the sheds and pergola while the children were on Easter break. Then the children could plant out the tender plants and vegetables when the risk of frosts past.

While painting and cleaning out the planters around the pergola we found the post were rotting away at the base on each one. This meant it was not safe the school having no funds to cover these sort of problems meant it would probably have to come down. After speaking with the schools Headmaster it was decided that one of the childrens Dad and the caretaker would install new post free of charge if we could come up with funds to pay for it. Due to this being a project connected with The Tree Council via The Tree Warden scheme, Friends of Priors Hill Copse came to the rescue and funded the materials. Apart from this disappointment the day went well with sheds painted, scented decorated pots, vegetable plot prepared, child friendly native hedge with wildflower seeds sown.

Flower border with wildflower seeds, fragrant pots

Vegetable plot, compost bin and fragrant pots

A small child friendly hedgerow made up of Goat Willow and Grey Willow to give some early colour a few wildflower seeds sown.

It’s hoped to finish the planting with the children by the second week of May otherwise the vegetables will have taken over my potting shed. We have Peas, Runner Beans, lettuces, cabbage and marigolds all waiting to go in. The coloured planters behind the pergola are having different coloured Hydrangeas going in them.

Engaging children with nature 2

I was approached last year to help brighten up a reception classes playground and introduce contact with nature through sight, scent and growing. Whilst working on the design the school asked if something could be done with their wildlife area which was in its early stages.
With the generous help from The Tree Council, TCV, Grow Wild and Hillier Garden Centers I was able to put forward a twin project to the school.
Part one is to improve their wildlife area with native plants, bug houses, bird box and wildflowers.
Project two is to brighten up the play area with paint and plants.

The Wildlife Area

A group of parents and children from the school plus friends got together to work on the wildlife area.

They plant 200 native hedgerow trees consisting of Dog Wood Cornus mas, Mountain Ash Sorbus aucuparia, Bird Cherry Prunus padus and Hawthorn Crataegus monogyna. 135 green wildflower bulbs consisting of Wild Daffodil , Wild Garlic and Bluebell also a small area of wildflower seeds and Forget-me-not Myosotis ramosissima. Green bulb were chosen to try and give some instant colour having never used green bulbs before it might not have been my best idea. They are difficult to try and get a natural look and to keep reminding everyone plant down to the start of green on the plant. I am growing perennial wildflower plug plants for this autumn so I will get some more bulbs for the area to beef up the flowers for next spring.

Next stage will be working on the playground part hopefully over the Easter break so we can paint the outside store buildings without painting the children.

Wild Flower growing project

January 2019

This year I am trying something different for 2 projects I am carrying out this year. Growing wildflower plug plants for the Community Fruit Area project and creating a wild area for a local school. Follow me through the ups and downs as I try to grow the following wildflowers.

Yellow Rattle Rhinanthus minor
This variable, erect and stiff stemmed plant is semi-parasitic on the roots of various herbs and grass. It acts like a colonising plant leading the way for other wildflowers to follow by reducing the grasses thus opening up the land. It’s dark green leaves are coarsely toothed and stalkless. Borne in the leafy spikes are yellow flowers they can also be brownish with violet or white teeth on the upper lip. The fruit capsule turn brown when ripe and contain many seeds which become loose and rattle.

Field scabious Kanautia arvensis

This plant is rather robust and hairy with purple spotted stems and basal leaf rosettes. The lower leaves are pinnately lobed while the basal ones are spoon shaped and undivided, the upper are smaller and less divided.

Foxglove Digitalis purpurea

This plant produces a large leaf-rosette in it’s first year which are hairy and greyish green. In the second year a erect leafy flower stem is produced with soft hairy leaves which are smaller than the lower ones they are also unstalked. Drooping funnel shaped flowers are pink or purple with darker spots inside. Fruit capsules which contain many seeds are produced from the lower flowers first slowly working it’s way up the flowering stem. This plant is poisonous.

Mallow Malva sylvestris

Another robust, hairy plant with erect and occasionally sprawling leaves. The leaves are alternate and rounded in outline but have 3 to 7 shallow, blunted lobes which are toothed. On the upper leaf axils flowers in 2 or more clusters are produced which have 5 deeply notched pink or purple petals. The seeds are produced in a ring of one seeded segments.

The seed are being grown in 2 ways the first is outside in a seed cage converted from a dog cage. I have had problems in the past with bird getting at the seeds hopefully this will persuade them leave my seeds alone and just eat the ones in their bird feeders. Secondly I have sown seeds in a small plug plant propagator in the potting shed which is frost free which I am trying for the first time. So far the first signs of movement are from the Mallow in the plug plant propagator.